Wednesday, January 24, 2007

Strong opinions about Pinot Noir

Among wine writers and wine geeks, nothing draws out opinions like the modern versus traditionalist winemaking debate. And Pinot Noir seems to be ground zero for the debate, based on its rising popularity and its tendency to transmit whatever actions are taken to the wine.

Most opinions either take one extreme or the other... "California doesn't make real Pinot Noir" or "California wines are naturally riper and we should enjoy them". Today I read an article on winereviewonline.com that essentially takes extreme positions on both sides. The author says that the only real Pinot Noirs are the expensive variety from Premier/Grand Cru Burgundy vineyards or "from top producers in Oregon, New Zealand, and a few cool spots in California."

While I understand where he is coming from - there is a trend towards extremely ripe, monotonous wines from California - his statement is not consumer-friendly. Consumers should not have to pay high prices to drink decent Pinot, and contrary to his generalizations, it exists.

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